Lowered Seat for Fazer

This evening I picked up a second hand lowed seat for my Fazer (from a chap on the Fazer’s Owner Club). My wife used to be a keen biker and wanted to take my Fazer out from time to time, however she is only 5’1″ tall and found the Fazer too high to manage. This replacement seat is essentially a standard seat that has had the leather cover peeled back and much of the foam padding cut away, then restitched up again. It brings the seat height down an inch or so and is very quick to swap on and off.

My wife is still struggling a bit with the Fazer, but can at least get her toes on the ground now. Hopefully with a bit of practice, she’ll get the confidence and balance to manage it.

R&G Racing Superbike Rain Cover

R&G Rain CoverUnfortunately I don’t have the luxury of a garage or shed to store my motorbike, I have to park the bike on our driveway, open to the elements. There’s no two ways about it, a bike will never last as well stored on the drive like this. But a decent rain cover can mitigate this somewhat.

But which cover? It seems you spend anything from a tenner to nigh on a monkey for a top notch cover. But what is really worth it?

I was looking for something durable, water proof (duh!), not going to melt on the exhaust and easy to put on and take off. Going through the reviews, the general verdict was an Oxford Stormtex or R&G Racing Superbike cover, which come in at £40 and £60 respectively. The Oxford cover has the edge in the heat proof stakes, but costs more. However R&G have an outlet store on ebay, where I managed to pick this cover for a measly £25! No contest.

Edit: The cover is a little tight fitting, particularly so since adding the Givi top box rack, which juts out a bit at the back. As to heat from exhaust, I’ve never had a problem, by the time I’ve chained up the bike and removed top box, the can is plenty cool to pop cover over the top.

Visit the R&G Outlet Shop on Ebay.

Alpinestars Bat Leather Trousers

Alpinestars Bat Leather PantsWhen it comes to protective clothing on the bike, leather is still one of the best choices. Maybe not as waterproof as Goretex, or hard wearing as Kevlar, but on balance, it tends to be best overall value for the money. The other advantage, is there is loads of leather gear available second hand, often it very good nick. A fine example of which was these Alpinestars Bat Leather trousers.

I picked these up from a chap off the London Bikers forum, for the princely sum of £50. I already had some Hein Gericke leather trousers, I had picked up new in their recent closing down sale. However they were a loose cut style and a tiny bit big in the waist. Pulling the tabs in on the waist causes the leather to ruck up and becomes uncomfortable after a while. Moral of the story: buy what fits, not what’s a good price.

Anyway, back to the Alpinestars Bat Pants; they are quite low down in their range, but still normally retail for about £200. Protection wise, they just feature some layered leather knee pads – no knee-down sliding in these. They are a slim fit, with stretch panels and zips in the calf sections. They’re snug to get on and need a bit of wiggling to pull them up, but once in, they fitted me very well and were very comfortable, even after long periods of time.

Alpinestars Bat Leather Pants KneesOnly a couple of down sides: Firstly, the single pocket on the right thigh, fine for a phone, but too tight for a wallet. So, once I take my jacket off, I’m stuck for pockets to keep my keys and wallet safe. Secondly the knee protection has a habit of folding over when putting your feet in, so needs flattening before zipping up the calves. This can be a bit awkward and annoying, however it may be down to the age of the leather and having lost some of its original rigidity.

Overall, I very happy with the trousers, much prefer the tight cut style. They’re very comfortable and I’ve not worn my old Hein Gericke trousers since.

Rating 5/5

Security, Pragmasis Chain & Torc Ground Anchor

Pragmasis Security Chain & Torc Ground AnchorBike security is essential in London. It’s a sad state of affairs, but bike crime is rife and only a fool would skimp on security. A good solid chain is one of the best measures you can take, but it is only as good as what you chain the bike to.

Your chain should have at least 16mm thick links, anything less is a waste of time. As many would be thieves favour 42″ bolt cutters, which generally have a mouth that can only accommodate ~14mm chains. Even better, opt for a 19mm chain. The best brands out there are Almax and Pragmasis. Price wise there is little difference, however I opted with Pragmasis as their ground anchor appeared to have the edge slightly. The downside of these big chains is weight. Since I would be carrying the chain to work everyday, I opted for the 16mm chain, which at 2m and with lock, weighs in at about 15Kg!
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Bought My First Motorbike – Yamaha Fazer 600

Yamaha Fazer FZS600And there she is. Damned she’s nice. I only hope I can keep her looking this sweet.

Found this on Gumtree, it was a little more than I initially wanted to spend, but it’s great condition. Owned from new by a fair weather ride, who has kept it in a shed and only put 13K on the clock. I took a good friend along, whose been riding bikes for decades, to give it a once over and confirm there’s nothing dodgy about it. He told me to buy it quick, otherwise he would!

Which First Bike? ABS or not?

Now I’ve passed my test, I can’t stop itching to get back on a bike. Every day I take the bus/tube to work, I longingly look at bikes going by wishing I had my own.

Honda-CBF-500But what bike do I get? I’m very tempted by the Honda CBF500, it’s what I learnt on, what I know. It’s a good bike, that seems to be universally well regarded. A city full of couriers on them can’t be wrong. I like the idea of ABS, as an extra precaution and help me while I continue to build up my experience. I will inevitably make mistakes, maybe the ABS could prevent some.

The CBF’s are still quite new ish though, so not the cheapest second hand. Unless its ex-courier and has done intergalactic miles. The older CB500’s are more reasonable, definitely fit a budget of about a £1000. But older and no ABS.

yamaha-fazer-600-1998A good friend has recommended a Yamaha Fazer FZS600. Slightly bigger, more powerful and similar in price second hand. Insurance costs are about the same as the CBF500 too. Bit more edge, probably last me longer, I’ll less likely to out grow it so soon. But no ABS.

The bikini fairing on the Fazer should afford a little more protection from elements on the motorway. But it’s also a worry, as I will inevitable drop my first bike and probably crack or scuff it.

Passed DAS Module 2 – Yippee!

Passed DAS - Big Grin!I did it!

I passed my DAS. Bit nerve racking, but passed. I can now ride any motorbike I like!

It was a bit tight on time, as my test was late morning, only giving me half a day to practice. The guys at 1 Stop Instruction have all been great, taught me well and quite obviously have a great system for getting newbie’s on two wheels.

We did a lot of riding around Enfield covering all the main routes of the test. Checking out many traps and common gotcha’s that others often fail on. Then it was off to the test centre. I just had to stay calm, remember every life saver, position myself correctly at every junction and cancel them bloody indicators! The 1 Stop bikes all have buzzers attached to the indicators as an aid memoir, simple but very effective.

The test mostly went very smoothly, though a brief hail storm made things interesting. Especially as this occurred when I ran into a long tail back behind some vehicles on tow. Do I filter past or hold back? Can I get by before the island in the road? Should I be safe and stay back due to weather conditions?

Near the very end of the test we ran straight into a jam waiting for a railway crossing. Odd I thought, the 1 Stop guys had shown me a common trap just round the corner: a junction at the end of a road with no central markings, but painted parking bays either side. The trick is not to assume its a one way street and position yourself to the right of an imaginary left hand lane, ignoring parking bays. So why did he let me go into the jam and not take me here? After the test, in the debrief the examiner quizzed me if I had heard him say turn left back there… Thinking back, I can’t work out if it was an intercom failure, or just me too deep in concentration elsewhere… Oh well, I passed.

Overall I felt relaxed and confident throughout, the examiner took me on roads I had ridden many times over the previous 2-3 days. Advice for your test: know the roads, avoid surprises. And jams are your friend, less time you’re riding, the less time you could be failing.

Passed DAS Module 1

Yay, I’m half way through my DAS course after passed my module 1 today. For those not familiar with the DAS, it is split into two modules, the first consists of a series of manoeuvres around a car park; U-turn, slalom, figure-of-8, emergency stop and swerve at 50kph, etc. The second module is done entirely on the road, being followed my a DVLA examiner.

Module 1 at 1 Stop Instruction

I have spent the last day and a half practising these manoeuvres like mad in a car park with 1-Stop Instruction. The car park at their disposal is a lot smaller than the test centre and they pushed us to achieve the required manoeuvres within this tighter space, on a slight incline and at faster speeds. This made it tough, but rewarding and prepared me and my fellow student well for the module 1 test – blatantly, as we both passed first time.

For me the U-Turn proved hardest, maintaining smooth clutch control throughout to get the right speed, not too slow as to lose balance or too fast to go wide. The two speed tested manoeuvres were a bit nerve racking. These involve an emergency stop and swerve after passing through a speed camera at 50 KPH (~31 MPH). The CBF500 could manage the stop fine, but too hard on the brakes and the ABS kicks in to prevent skidding. Safe, but unfortunately a fail on the test. The swerve really tests ones confidence and control of the bike. The bike needs to lean back and to in a smooth manner, more than I was initially at ease doing considering my lack of experience. The key is too look at where the bike needs to go, rather than at the cones.

My test certificate had a couple of minor faults, one for lifting the rear wheel off the ground slightly on the emergency stop and one for handling of the bike when pushing it from one parking space to another. This latter one was because I had failed to find neutral on parking up (Doh!), so had to perform the manoeuvre holding the clutch in to hide the fact… A pass is still a pass, so I spend the rest of the day practising the module 2 routes around the Enfield DSA test centre, going through places where previous students have been caught out. Nearly there now.

One-to-One Training

Most Direct Access (DAS) courses are run over 5 days and not always flexible in this matter. For some this is not long enough and they end up retaking their test(s), for others this is too long and thus unnecessarily expensive. After completing my CBT with 1-Stop Instruction, I was keen to continue with them for my DAS course. Their suggested route is to take 2 hours of 1-2-1 tuition, to migrate from a 125 onto a larger 500cc bike and then follow this up with just 3 days of DAS training.

Today, I completed this 2 hour 1-2-1 course. It began with a quick refresher on a 125 bike, a quaint Honda CG125, then onto a Honda CBF500. Since the CBT course was my only experience on a motorcycle, I was quite nervous. However this was very much unfounded, I found the CBF500 a much easier bike to ride. It was a lot smoother to control, far less twitchy on clutch than the CG125. The extra power was a lot more forgiving, so less stalling too. Out on the road, it was a fun and exciting ride, cementing my dream I want one of my own.

I now have my DAS course booked for later this coming week. Can’t wait.

Trials and tribulations of a motorcycle newbie in London