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FZ6 Mini Mod – Fixing The Heavy Clutch

My Yamaha FZ6 S2 has been a great weekday commuter workhorse, yet with enough beans for some weekend fun. However, it’s not without issue, in particular the clutch. Firstly, it’s very heavy on the hand, to the extent I was getting hand ache in the first few weeks of ownership and was convinced it needed a new clutch cable (which changed little!) Secondly, the clutch bite point is way out on the lever, with little distance before fully released, even when all correctly adjusted with free play to spec. This all adds up to clunky gear shifts that you can never quite smooth out, you just can’t get throttle blips timed nicely with the point of clutch engage.

Recently I stumbled across a simple mod that promised to improve the heavy FZ6 clutch, which entails swapping on the lower clutch push lever from an MT07. This is the lever at the lower end of the clutch cable protruding from the clutch case cover. The MT07 push lever is slightly longer and so affords greater leverage, and thus lightens the clutch action.

Clutch push levers
Push levers comparison – Top: original FZ6; Botton: MT07

To remove the lever:

  1. Loosen the clutch cable to gain some free play; this can be done at the clutch lever (winding it all the way in) and half way along the cable (awkwardly tucked under left hand side of air box).
  2. Prise up the tab on the push lever and then slide out the clutch cable from it.
  3. Pop off the retaining circlip on top of the lever, then slide off the push lever with the spring beneath.

Do make sure your toolbox has a pair of ‘outer circlip pliers’ for this job, otherwise you’ll just be setting yourself up for frustration and probably end up scratching paint on the clutch case…

Refitting the MT07 push lever is pretty much the reverse, but you need care in aligning the lever. Do also stick with the FZ6 spring, the MT07 one does not fit.

  1. First turn the push lever axle protruding from the case fully clockwise (it only has around 90° of play)
  2. Slide on the spring (it only fits one way up)
  3. Slide on the MT07 push lever, so that it is pointing towards back of bike. The original lever has a dot on it that lines up with a small arrow on clutch case, but not the MT07 lever doesn’t. Nonetheless, compare the two and you’ll see how to align it the same. You’ll need to manually push the spring back to slot the end of it over the lever.
  4. Slide on the washer and then the affix the circlip.
  5. Attach the clutch cable and adjust slack (lever free play should be 10-15mm)
MT07 Push lever
MT07 clutch push lever fitted on FZ6

If you finish with almost no resistance at the clutch lever and it not springing back, then your lower push lever is not aligned correctly. When aligned, you will not be able to turn the lower push lever any further clockwise by hand, but when the cable is attached you will via the clutch lever. The biggest faff is lifting the tank and removing the air box to access the clutch cable adjusters hidden underneath it…

Did it work? Yes, it certainly lightened the clutch quite noticeably, making riding a lot more relaxed. The clutch bite position is still quite far out (when keeping free play in spec), with only slight difference in that regard. Some have warned of cable rubbing due to different angle, but I’ve not encountered any issues in this regard. Either way, definitely a mod worth doing and not too much costly.

The part you need is: 1WS-16340-00 (“PUSH LEVER ASSY”). Should set you back around £23-25 new, but you may find it cheaper second hand. Buy from Fowlers UK here.


Full credit goes to this forum thread, which has more details and I definitely recommend reading too:


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By Arthur

Seasoned London commuter, doing my best to stay rubber side down and never stop moving forward.

14 replies on “FZ6 Mini Mod – Fixing The Heavy Clutch”

Hi nice thread I have not actually noticed that the standard clutch is stiff (maybe due to an old gsxr 1000 I used to have that was really hard work not sure if previous mods were done to that clutch) but I will do it just to see I use my clutch a lot during so maneuvers so any gain there has to be worth it
Thank you for the info
Happy riding

I did it and it has been exactly as stated in the article. Thanks for the tip.
(out of Rotterdam , The Netherlands)

Trying to do this on my 2004 FZ06. First, my slack adjustment was as far out as it could go before I started. Turned it all the way in. Took off the old lever, turned the push lever axle fully clockwise (seems backwards to me unless there is a lot of pressure against that axle that can only be turned past that position with the clutch lever and cable). Now, having a hard time getting enough slack out of the cable. I really don’t want to have to remove the air intake… Seems like I’d only gain 10mm anyway there. Any other ideas?

Sounds like you don’t have the lower push lever aligned correctly. You did need a lot of pressure that can only be provided via the clutch handlebar lever and cable.

I also did this modification. I used a luggage scale to measure the improvement. Force required at the lever reduced from 12.4kg to 7.1kg, a 40% reduction in required force!

Great to hear real quantifiable figures on the difference this mod makes. It certainly gave a noticeable difference, but it’s startling to learn its 40% difference.

Hey im looking to do this with me fz6 04 will the bitting point be in a little closer than it was before I get it done . My Mechanic going do it over week for me and I’m getting new cable should that make a difference to the bitting point ?

TBH the position of the biting point is more determined by a) the adjustment dial on the clutch level and b) the adjuster half way down the cable (tucked away beside the air box on the left hand side of the bike). Tweaking these will let you adjust the clutch biting position. This is adjustment you’d need to do implicitly when replacing the clutch cable and/or lower lever arm, but you should be able to adjust the position with the current cable too.

That said, if you’re on the original cable that’s nearly 20 years old, a replacement is probably a good plan nonetheless. A good preventative measure against a potential future failure.
Replacing the lower arm lever will only make the clutch action slightly easier. It’ll still be heavier than most bikes, but better than is was!

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