harley davidson battery charger

Sunday, October 26th, 2008 at 10:45 pm

harley davidson battery charger
Where can I get a recipe from a 1995 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail feeder system free?

Well, the battery is not charged and I try to get a diagram of the system loader preferably in the owner's manual so I can see where the alternator and possibly replace it. I eventually sought a PDF of this manual Mercy, or anything in advance! I tried to google around 45 minutes, without any result.

I'll answer this question and I'll try not to sound like a bell total, although that may be difficult for me. The wiring diagram is on the back of the hand function, and if you start replacing items such as an alternator, then you MUST have a service manual to repair properly. First, you must verify that the alternator is the problem. You'll spend a fortune in cash and hours of time to install a part that does not solve the problem (and can not be returned to the retailer or anyone else) unless you check the source of the problem. A test system load starts with a fully charged battery. I suppose you have a volt-ohm meter to make with electrical testing, otherwise I'm wasting my time with your question. Make sure your battery is holding at 12.6 volts DC with the OFF button, if it is something less then you must charge the battery before testing the charging system. I do not recommend the use of a loader type car, but if you do not a battery charger motorcycle then use a car charger, just put the lowest setting and do not let more than an hour or two. I also recommend have tested the load to your store auto parts, they will check it for free if you do not have a load tester. Connections the battery must be clean and tight spec. Many pricing issues can be attributed to faulty connections. If the battery is fully charged, check the battery voltage with the engine running. It should be higher than the reading you got with the key off, for example, I expect an operating system to read correctly pricing 13-14 VDC at idle to 3000 rpm, but never more than 15 VDC. If the reading is over 15 VDC, then you have a failure of the regulator. If the reading is the same as OFF or less, then you have a charging system problem. If reading is much larger key, as 13 volts or more, then the problem is not the battery charging system. I begin by checking the output of the stator in the three yellow son out of the engine. This measure is volts AC, you can check this by unplugging the connector and the engine running while the connection of your son's test two of the son. This will give you the result for a phase of the stator, you'll need to check out the other two legs and check that the output varies no more than 10% between measurements. Imagine that the three yellow son are numbered A, B and C. The first criterion is the son between A and B, the second test between the son B and C, the third criterion is the son between A and C. Measures should be about 35-52 VAC at 2000 rpm or 19-26 VAC per 1000 RPM. If your reading are too low, then check the continuity of the stator with the key off using your meter to check ohms of resistance. It is the same place as before, AB, BC, AC, and there should be continuity between each son. Less than one ohm is preferable, 10 ohms indicates a problem, more than 10 ohms is a bad stator. I would also check continuity to ground, ie plug the cord test positive for one of three son and yellow wire to the negative test battery, make sure you do not have continuity to ground. Your meter should read OL or OFL on a digital counter, or hundreds of K ohm meter on the old school. Check all three son to check the continuity of NO ground. Any continuity to ground indicates a bad stator must be replaced. That's how you tell if the alternator is good or bad. A new service manual is about $ 60 from a dealer, less than half that on Ebay, and free from your local library. I checked all sites that have manuals free to download, and none of them carry your bike in particular. Email me if you have questions or need additional details.

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